Originally posted on Apr 11, 2019

 

Using a backup camera to reverse your vehicle is standard practice, but many drivers with trucks, SUVs, and farm equipment want their camera running continuously, not just when shifting into reverse. The good news: this is absolutely achievable with the right aftermarket system and some straightforward DIY wiring work.

The key difference from a standard backup camera installation is the power source. Instead of wiring to your reverse light circuit (which only powers on when you shift into reverse), you'll connect to your running lights circuit for continuous operation while driving.

This guide walks you through the process, from selecting the right equipment to testing your finished installation.

Safety Notice: A continuous video stream showing the back of your vehicle can be a serious distraction from driving. Forward-facing attention should always be your priority. These setups are best suited for private property, farms, off-road environments, and situations where rear visibility provides genuine safety value. Always comply with your local and federal laws regarding screens visible to the driver.

What You'll Need for Continuous Camera Operation

Before diving into the installation, you need two critical components that differ from a standard backup camera setup:

1. A camera with independent power capability. Most factory backup cameras are hard-wired to only receive power when the reverse light activates. For continuous operation, you need an aftermarket universal backup camera that can accept power from any 12V source.

2. An independently powered monitor. Your display also needs to operate outside the reverse-only trigger system. Aftermarket universal monitors or rear view mirror monitors give you this flexibility.

OEM backup camera systems are notoriously difficult to modify beyond their factory functionality. If your vehicle already has a built-in backup camera, it's usually easier (and more reliable) to install a completely separate aftermarket system rather than attempting to hack the existing setup.

Assembling Your Tools

Gathering your tools before you start prevents frustrating mid-project trips to the hardware store.

Essential Tools for the Job

You'll need the following equipment for a clean, professional installation:

• Hand drill with metal-drilling bits (high-speed titanium-oxide coated bits work best)

• Torx set and Torx socket set

• Adjustable wrench or complete wrench set

• Standard wire stripper/crimper

• Utility knife

• Socket or nut driver set

• Safety goggles

• Flashlights (hands-free headlamps are ideal)

• Electrical tape and heat-shrink tubing

• Wire connectors (butt splices, ring terminals)

• Several rubber grommets (sized for your camera cable)

• Zip ties for cable management

• Multimeter (for verifying connections)

Materials to Have Ready

Beyond tools, make sure you have enough wire for your vehicle's length. Measure from your license plate area to where your monitor will mount, then add several extra feet. Running short of wire mid-installation is a common—and completely avoidable—problem.

If you're working with a complete camera kit, verify that the included cables are long enough for your specific vehicle. Trucks and SUVs often need more cable length than standard sedans.

Choosing the Right Camera and Monitor

Your equipment choices directly impact both installation difficulty and long-term reliability.

Camera Selection Guidelines

Camera pricing varies based on features and build quality:

• Under $100: Basic universal backup cameras handle the job for most DIY installations. Budget options often skimp on cable quality and weather resistance—factors that matter more with continuous operation.

• $100–200: Universal license plate cameras and complete kits with monitors fall in this range. These typically include better weatherproofing and higher-quality connectors that withstand vibration and temperature swings.

• $200+: Premium cameras with features like infrared night vision, heated lenses for cold climates, and heavy-duty construction for agricultural and commercial applications.

For trucks, SUVs, and farm equipment that see rough conditions, investing in a more durable camera pays dividends. Cheap cameras often fail within a year or two from moisture infiltration or connector corrosion.

Monitor Options

Your monitor choice depends on where you want to view the camera feed:

• Dashboard monitors mount on or in your dash, providing a dedicated screen for the camera. These range from compact 4" displays to larger 7"+ screens.

• Rearview mirror monitors replace your existing mirror with one that includes a built-in screen. When the camera feed isn't active, it functions as a normal mirror—a clean integration that doesn't add dashboard clutter.

• Windshield-mounted monitors attach via suction cup and work well when other mounting options aren't practical.

Not sure which approach fits your vehicle best? Our guide on wired vs. wireless vs. smartphone backup cameras breaks down the pros and cons of each system type.

Understanding Your Vehicle's Electrical System

Before touching any wiring, you need to understand how your vehicle's electrical system will support continuous camera operation.

Why Running Lights Are the Power Source

Running lights (also called parking lights or daytime running lights) activate whenever your vehicle is running. By tapping into this circuit, your camera receives power the entire time you're driving—exactly what you need for continuous rear visibility.

This is fundamentally different from a standard backup camera installation, which uses the reverse light circuit. If you've read our backup camera installation guide, you'll recognize many of the same steps, but the power source connection is the critical difference.

Pre-Installation Electrical Checks

Verify your vehicle's electrical capacity. A continuously running camera draws more power over time than one that only operates during reversing. While the draw is minimal (typically 200–500mA), older vehicles with marginal alternators or aging batteries might experience issues.

If you're uncertain about your vehicle's electrical health, have a mechanic check the charging system before proceeding. This is especially important for older trucks and farm equipment that may already run multiple accessories.

Obtain a wiring diagram. Your vehicle's wiring diagram shows exactly where to locate the running light circuit. Many camera kits include vehicle-specific diagrams, but if yours doesn't, your owner's manual or an online service manual for your make/model will have this information.

Continuous Power Wiring

For most installations with a dashboard or mirror monitor, your wiring will follow this configuration:

[Running Lights Circuit] → [Camera Power] → [Camera]

                                              ↓

                                         [RCA Video Cable]

                                              ↓

[Fuse Box / Ignition Power] → [Monitor Power] → [Monitor]

The camera connects to the running lights for continuous power, while the monitor connects to an ignition-switched power source (so it turns off when you shut off the vehicle).

Removing the Trunk Interior Panel

With your tools ready and your wiring plan clear, it's time to access the rear of your vehicle.

Accessing Your Camera Mounting Area

Start by opening your trunk, hatch, or tailgate to locate the interior panels that cover the wiring behind your license plate area.

Most interior panels are hard plastic or rubber held in place by plastic clips, screws, or a combination of both. Use a thin trim removal tool or flathead screwdriver to carefully pop the clips. Work slowly—if you're snapping plastic, you're being too aggressive.

What to Look For

Once the panel is removed, you should see:

• Wiring harnesses for your tail lights and reverse lights

• The back side of your license plate light housing

• Any existing camera wiring (if your vehicle has a factory backup camera)

• Potential cable routing paths to the front of the vehicle

Take a photo of the original wiring layout before disconnecting anything. This reference proves invaluable if you need to troubleshoot later.

Preparing the License Plate Area

Most backup cameras mount on or near the license plate, so this is where you'll create the cable entry point.

Removing the License Plate

Unbolt your license plate and set it aside. This gives you clear access to the area where you'll drill for cable routing.

Before drilling any holes, verify that:

• You won't cut into existing wiring or brake lines.

• Your camera placement won't obscure your license plate number.

• The location provides the camera angle you need for rear visibility.

Drilling and Installing the Grommet

Using a drill bit sized for your camera's cable (typically 3/4" for most systems), drill through from the exterior side of the trunk into the interior space you accessed.

Important: Drill from outside-in to ensure a cleaner hole on the visible exterior surface.

Insert a rubber grommet into the hole. This grommet protects your cables from the sharp metal edges and prevents water from entering your vehicle's interior. Don't skip this step—unprotected cables rubbing against metal will eventually short out.

If your camera includes a mounting bracket or housing, now is a good time to test-fit it before running cables.

Running and Connecting Wires

This is the core of the installation—wiring your camera to the running lights circuit for continuous power.

Running the Camera Cable

Feed your camera's cable through the grommeted hole into the vehicle interior. Connect the cable to your camera before routing—it's much easier to pull a connected cable through than to try connecting in a tight space.

Locating the Running Lights Wiring

With your interior panel removed, locate the wiring harness for your running lights. Consult your vehicle's wiring diagram to identify the correct wires. You're looking for:

• Positive (power) wire: Typically the same color as specified in your diagram (commonly brown, gray, or green depending on manufacturer)

• Ground wire: Usually black, connected to the chassis

Use a multimeter to verify you've identified the correct wires before cutting anything. With the running lights on, the positive wire should show approximately 12V.

Making the Power Connection

Power down your vehicle before cutting any wires. Remove the key from the ignition to ensure no circuits are live.

Strip approximately 1/2" of insulation from both the running light positive and ground wires. You're creating a splice point, not cutting the wire completely—the original circuit needs to continue functioning.

There are two approaches to splicing:

Method 1: T-tap connectors (easiest but less reliable long-term) These clamp-on connectors pierce the insulation without cutting the wire. They're quick but can work loose over time with vibration.

Method 2: Solder and heat-shrink (more work but more reliable) Splice your camera's power wire into the running light circuit using a proper solder joint. This creates a permanent, vibration-resistant connection. Cover all exposed connections with heat-shrink tubing.

Connect positive to positive and ground to ground. Many installation failures trace back to reversed polarity or poor ground connections.

Routing the Video Cable

With power connected, run your RCA video cable from the camera to your monitor location. You have two primary routing options:

Headliner route: Tuck the cable behind ceiling panels, running along the A-pillar to the dashboard. This hides the cable completely but requires more panel removal.

Floor route: Run the cable along door sills and under carpet. This is faster but less clean.

Whichever route you choose, secure the cable with zip ties every 12–18 inches to prevent rattling and keep it away from moving parts or heat sources.

Mounting Your Monitor

With the camera installed and cables routed, you're ready to set up your display.

Dashboard Monitor Installation

If you're using a standalone dashboard monitor, select a mounting location that provides clear visibility without obstructing your forward view. Most monitors include suction cup or adhesive mounting options.

Run the RCA video cable to your monitor's input. If your monitor has multiple inputs, make sure you're connecting to the correct one (often labeled "CAM" or "VIDEO IN").

Mirror Monitor Installation

Rearview mirror monitors typically replace your existing mirror entirely. They attach to the existing mirror mount using a bracket or strap system.

These monitors require power, usually routed from your fuse box or dome light circuit. Follow your monitor's instructions for the specific power connection method.

Power Connection for the Monitor

Unlike the camera, your monitor should power from an ignition-switched source—meaning it turns off when you turn off the vehicle. This prevents battery drain.

Options include:

• Installing a fuse tap in an ignition-switched fuse slot

• Tapping into an existing accessory circuit

• Using the power wire from your dome light

Testing Your Installation

Before reassembling panels, verify everything works correctly.

Initial Power Test

With your vehicle running (engine on, not just accessory mode):

1. Turn on your running lights (headlight switch to "parking" position).

2. Check that your camera powers on and displays an image.

3. Verify the monitor receives the video signal clearly.

Walk behind the vehicle and confirm the camera captures the full field of view you need.

Checking for Wiring Issues

If your camera doesn't power on, use your multimeter to verify:

• The running light circuit is receiving power.

• Your splice connections are solid.

• Ground connections are secure.

Common problems at this stage include:

• Reversed polarity (swap positive and ground connections)

• Loose splice connections

• Ground wire not making good contact with chassis

If you're seeing a blurry or distorted image, consult our guide on troubleshooting blurry backup cameras.

Running Light Operation Test

Turn off the running lights. The camera should power down. Turn them back on—the camera should power up again.

If the camera stays on with running lights off, you've accidentally wired to a constant-power circuit. Trace your connections and verify you're tapped into the correct wire.

Road Test

Take a short drive in a safe area (private property or empty parking lot) to verify:

• The image remains stable during vehicle movement.

• Cable connections don't vibrate loose.

• The display brightness works in various lighting conditions.

Reassembly and Final Steps

Once testing confirms everything works, reinstall all interior panels, replace your license plate, and secure any remaining loose cables.

Cable Management

Professional installations hide cables completely. Take the time to:

• Tuck excess cable behind panels.

• Secure any exposed runs with zip ties.

• Ensure no cables interfere with moving parts.

Usage Recommendations

Your continuously running camera is now ready, but use it wisely.

When to use: Private property, farm operations, parking lots, off-road environments, towing operations, and any situation where rear visibility adds genuine safety value.

When to minimize: Highway driving where a constant rear display adds distraction without meaningful benefit. Some drivers prefer to dim or turn off the monitor during extended highway travel and activate it for maneuvering situations.

Battery considerations: Continuous operation draws more power than a reverse-only camera. If you frequently leave your running lights on while parked, the added camera draw could impact battery life over time.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

If you encounter problems after installation, these resources can help:

• How to troubleshoot a backup camera that's not working – comprehensive guide for diagnosing no-signal, black screen, and other common failures

• Why does my backup camera only work sometimes? – intermittent operation diagnosis

• How to troubleshoot a foggy backup camera – moisture and condensation issues

Most problems trace back to three common causes:

1. Bad wire splices – Connections that seemed solid during installation can work loose from vibration

2. Poor ground connections – Ground wires need solid metal-to-metal contact with bare chassis

3. Unused wire ends – Any cut wires that aren't connected need to be capped or taped to prevent shorts

Ready to Get Started?

Installing a continuously running rear view camera gives you enhanced visibility for towing, off-road driving, farm work, and any situation where knowing what's behind you matters. With the right equipment and a methodical approach, this is a weekend project that pays dividends every time you drive.

Browse our complete selection of automotive rear view camera kits →

Whether you drive a truck, SUV, RV, or agricultural equipment, Camera Source carries the cameras, monitors, and wiring accessories you need for a professional-grade installation. Our universal backup cameras work with any vehicle, and our technical support team can help you select the right components for your specific application.